There are times I have to pinch myself at how lucky I am in my life. I have been to some extraordinary places around the world in the name of work – Antarctica has to be right up there at the top. Or bottom if you consider where it is on earth. I hope that this series, Wonders of the Frozen South, gives you a glimpse into the magnificence, beauty and importance of these frozen lands at the end of the world.
My journey south began in one of the world’s southernmost cities, Punta Arenas in Chile. Here I boarded the HX Expeditions ship, MS Fram under the expert guidance of Captain Terje Nilsen, as we set off in the wake of the legendary explorers of years gone by, through some of the most unpredictable and dangerous seas in the world – the Drake Passage.
As we watched Chile fade into the distance from the stern of the ship, we sailed off towards some of the remotest parts of the planet. It was another two days before we saw land again – the West Falkland Islands where I jumped on a zodiac to go ashore to visit some very special inhabitants of West Point Island.
I was struck by this vast and treeless landscape and open skies that feel like they go on forever as we drove across the Island. To get close to who we came to see, we needed to go by foot, trekking through towering tussac grass until we reached our destination, one of the greatest natural spectacles in the world – the world’s largest black-browed albatross colony with over 700,000 breeding pairs. Expedition team member and biologist Steve who is alongside me explains the importance of this species. It is such an astonishing sight and a reminder of the urgent need there is to conserve these precious environments for generations to come. I hope that my love of the outdoors, that I inherited from my Dad, is passed on to my children and beyond.
Next stop was Saunders Island where we had yet another unforgettable wildlife encounter – this time it was a colony of rockhopper penguins who were scrambling up from the surf whilst vast colonies of sea birds were clinging to the cliffs. I had the absolute pleasure to meet Louisa, whose family owns the island – what an incredible life they have coexisting with the extraordinary wildlife here, in the middle of the south Atlantic. As much as I do enjoy my creature comforts of living in the big city … part of me is a little envious!
From here our journey took us on to Stanley, capital of the Falkland Islands. One of the most important industries here on the islands is sheep farming. With around half a million sheep, the Falklands produce approximately 7 million kilos of premium wool every year, much of which is exported worldwide. As always I’m keen to get stuck in and help where I can – here that involved herding and shearing sheep whilst learning about why this brilliant white Falklands wool is so highly sought after. Local farmers, Suzi and Gilberto explain the importance of protecting this unique landscape, one that is essential not only to sustain their livelihoods but also this exceptional natural resource too.
From my short time on these islands, I came away feeling inspired and in awe of the natural beauty on offer here and the need to protect habitats and environments like these. I could have stayed longer but … it was time to get back to the MS Fram so we could head deeper into the Southern Ocean towards South Georgia.
As the Falklands faded into the distance, I saw my first whales of the trip whilst sea birds soared and circled overhead as we headed south. Before long, towering icebergs came onto the horizon – if I didn’t already know, this was a sure sign I was headed into the frozen south. As extraordinary as the journey has been so far … I know it’s only been a teaser of what is still to come.
